Taleggio : blue writing or red writing? Advice for an informed choice

Taleggio: origins and name

Originally Taleggio was called stracchino, the name derives from a Lombard expression: "strach" and referred to the fact that Taleggio was made from evening milk, when the cows arrived tired at milking after having grazed most of the day.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, the upper Bergamo valley felt the need to distinguish itself from cheeses coming from other areas and so chose to call its stracchino with a unique name linked to the territory. This is where Taleggio is born, coming from Val Taleggio. From here the path to recognition of the Do title - designation of origin - begins, and then in 1996 it reached the current DOP recognition - Protected Designation of Origin.

Over the years, the production of Taleggio has extended to the dairies of the Bergamo plain which, under the strict supervision of the Consortium for the protection of Taleggio cheese - CTT, choose to add technological innovations to the tradition.

The Taleggio. How is it produced?

The distinctive feature of Taleggio, i.e. the protected designation of origin, defines a well-defined production protocol that begins with the choice of the raw material. The maturing of Taleggio DOP can take place in areas established by the Consortium, under penalty of forfeiture of the renowned denomination: Bergamo, Brescia, Como, Cremona, Como, Lecco, Lodi, Milan and Pavia are the Lombard provinces that boast environmental characteristics suitable for the production of Taleggio DOP.

The production process consists of seven phases:

• Milk coagulation. The milk starter and rennet are inoculated into the milk heated to a temperature of 35°.
• The breaking of the curd. Divided into two periods approximately 10 or 15 minutes apart to allow the clot to lose excess liquid.
• The extraction of the curd. After a short resting phase, the curd is placed in molds - generally square - covered with natural fiber sheets.
• Stewing and branding. The phases allow the dairy to imprint its name on the shape of the taleggio during the cooking phase so as to be indelible.
• Stewing takes place at temperatures ranging between 22° and 25° degrees, and allows the pasta to reach a pre-established acidity and complete the whey purging phase.
• Salting. Fundamental to determine the uniqueness of the product can be done either in an artisanal or industrial way. The brine lasts between eight and ten hours.
• Seasoning. Limited to some specific areas, it allows taleggio to assert its name and occurs in particular spaces with temperatures ranging between 2° and 6° degrees with humidity between 85 and 90%.

During maturing the cheese is subjected to a procedure called sponging which allows the rind to be cleaned of mold and keeps the rind soft. In this last step, the Taleggio DOP with red writing and blue writing are formed.

The result is a soft cheese of Taleggio, tasty, delicious and perfect when combined with another typical product of the area: polenta.

Taleggio DOP - red writing and blue writing

Carne Genuina is an agricultural company in the Bergamo plain that has chosen to produce and market meat respecting the values ​​of local tradition and placing emphasis on respect for animals. The expansion of the commercial sphere has made it possible to integrate other local products into e-commerce that perfectly match the company vision.

The Taddei dairy is proof of this and thanks to the production of local cheeses it allows Carne Genuina to integrate its showcase with typical and perfect products both for the preparation of complex dishes and for the choice of bringing quality products to the table. Taleggio DOP is produced with raw milk to which rennet and salt are added. The cheese has a washed rind, the maturation is centripetal and has a duration of more than 60 days. The soft, homogeneous and compact paste releases unique sensations upon contact with the palate, giving unique flavors that take inspiration from the scents of the undergrowth and add a truffle note.

Taleggio DOP blue writing

The molds that distinguish Taleggio DOP with blue writing are of animal origin and make it a niche gastronomic product. The artisanal process in full compliance with the rules of tradition requires a Taleggio made with cow's milk produced with the two-paste technique. The technique consists of a double curd, the first - called hot curd - and the second - called cold curd - spent twelve hours.

The formation of natural mold allows the flavor to increase in intensity and reach a spicy note depending on the maturation period and the pressure of sponging. The maturation for this particular Taleggio ends no earlier than 75 days, during which sponging with water and salt is carried out constantly and regularly, so as to clean the rind of excess mould.

Taleggio DOP red writing

The red-written Taleggio PDO has a production procedure similar to the blue-written Taleggio DOP . It once had a seasonal characteristic since the maturing took place in narrow spaces that could not be reached for twelve months of the year. Thanks to this peculiarity it acquired a spectacular aroma.

Today, the production technique is inspired by tradition, but technological innovation has made it possible to compensate for seasonality and extend production throughout the year. The curd is made with liquid calf rennet and does not undergo the double procedure. The minimum maturation is 35 days, during which the cheese is subjected to sponging with water and salt to avoid the excessive appearance of mould.

Deluxe cheese box. A complete choice

We can define Taleggio with blue writing and Taleggio with red writing as two close relatives, which differ in the length of maturation and the delicacy - or voracity - dedicated to the sponging phase with water and salt. The distinction between the two products is easily identifiable from the external appearance, while on the palate it is more complicated to define the difference. The straw yellow colored paste, the sparkling flavor with a spicy hint make Taleggio DOP a perfect product for tasting typical flavors that bring back memories of traditional dishes.

The choice is difficult, the preference is personal and, to avoid making mistakes and risk not receiving applause from diners, Carne Genuina offers the Taleggio Box and the Deluxe Cheese Box which includes an assortment of 7 cheeses. In this way the range of cheeses will be able to satisfy all palates, allowing diners to enjoy traditional cheeses produced in full respect of tradition.